What is centipede decline and how do I prevent it?

Centipede decline is a gradual thinning and die-off, usually caused by over-fertilizing, over-liming, or both. Centipede needs only 1-2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year — far less than bermuda or St. Augustine. It also prefers acidic soil (pH 5.0-6.0). The fix: soil test first, use iron instead of nitrogen for color, and never lime unless pH is below 5.0.

Can I use 2,4-D weed killer on centipede?

No. 2,4-D herbicides (like many Weed B Gon products) can damage or kill centipede grass. Use atrazine for pre- and post-emergent broadleaf control, or triclopyr (Turflon) for tough weeds. Always check the label for centipede safety before applying any herbicide.

Why is my centipede turning yellow even though I fertilize?

Yellowing centipede is almost always iron chlorosis — caused by high soil pH, not nitrogen deficiency. Adding more nitrogen makes it worse. Apply chelated iron (iron sulfate or Ironite) for quick greening. Long-term fix: lower soil pH with sulfur if a soil test shows pH above 6.0.

How do I deal with ground pearls in centipede?

Ground pearls are scale insects that feed on centipede roots and have no effective chemical control. Management is cultural: keep the lawn as healthy as possible with proper mowing (1.5-2 inches), minimal but adequate fertilizer, correct pH, and supplemental watering during drought stress. Severely damaged areas may need to be replaced with sod or plugs.

Should I scalp my centipede lawn in spring?

No. Unlike bermuda, centipede should never be scalped. Its crown sits higher in the canopy, and scalping exposes it to sun damage and desiccation. Maintain 1.5-2 inches year-round. In spring, just resume regular mowing as growth starts — no special low cut needed.

Centipede Care Calendar

Month-by-month care schedule for Centipede grass lawns. Minimal inputs, careful fertilizing, and the right timing — the lazy lawn done right.

Mowing

1.5-2"

Annual N

1-2 lb N/1K sqft (less is more)

Water

1-1.25 inches/week

5.0-6.0 (acidic — do NOT lime)

What to do now

October

Dormant

Final mow of the season at 1.5-2"

MowingMed

Clear fallen leaves

GeneralLow

Centipede begins dormancy. Growth slows significantly. Do not fertilize.

See the full Centipede pre-emergent application timing guide

Full Year Calendar

Every task, every month. Tap a month to see what's on the schedule.

January

Dormant

Monitor for winter weeds (Poa annua, henbit, chickweed)

Equipment maintenance — sharpen mower blades

Centipede is dormant. Brown color is normal. Do not fertilize, irrigate, or disturb the lawn.

February

Active

Apply pre-emergent BEFORE soil temps reach 55°F!

Soil test if not done recently — centipede prefers pH 5.0-6.0

Pre-emergent is the most important early-season task. Centipede's slow growth means it can't outcompete weeds — chemical prevention is essential.

March

Active

Begin mowing at 1.5-2" as growth resumes — do NOT scalp!

Spot-treat broadleaf weeds with atrazine or triclopyr (NO 2,4-D)

Centipede greens up when soil temps reach 65°F. DO NOT scalp — centipede's crown sits high and scalping causes severe damage. Never use 2,4-D herbicides.

April

Active

First and possibly ONLY nitrogen application (0.5 lb N/1K max)!

Apply iron supplement for color instead of more nitrogen

Mow every 10-14 days at 1.5-2"!

Centipede needs the LEAST nitrogen of any warm-season grass — 1-2 lb N/year total. Over-fertilizing causes thatch buildup, disease, and centipede decline. Use iron for greening instead of nitrogen.

May

Active

Continue mowing every 10-14 days at 1.5-2"!

Apply preventative grub control

Water only if drought stress appears (wilting, blue-gray color)

Centipede grows slowly — expect to mow less often than bermuda. This is normal and a feature, not a bug.

June

Active

Continue mowing routine at 1.5-2"!

Second nitrogen application only if color is poor (0.5 lb N/1K max)

Scout for ground pearls (no chemical control — cultural management only)

Ground pearls are centipede's most devastating pest and have no effective chemical treatment. Healthy cultural practices (proper pH, minimal nitrogen, correct mowing) are the only defense.

July

Active

Continue mowing at 1.5-2"!

Iron supplement if color fades — do NOT add more nitrogen

Preventative fungicide if large patch was an issue last year

Large patch (Rhizoctonia) is centipede's primary disease threat. It activates in fall but preventative treatment can start now. Excess nitrogen dramatically increases large patch risk.

August

Active

Apply fall pre-emergent for winter weeds!

Continue mowing routine!

Fall pre-emergent is essential — centipede's slow growth can't outcompete winter annual weeds.

September

Active

Apply potassium for winter hardiness (0.5-1 lb K/1K)!

NO nitrogen after August!

Preventative fungicide for large patch

Reduce mowing frequency

Fall potassium helps centipede survive winter. Large patch activates as soil temps drop below 80°F — apply preventative fungicide if you had it last year. Never apply nitrogen this late.

October

Dormant

Final mow of the season at 1.5-2"

Clear fallen leaves

Centipede begins dormancy. Growth slows significantly. Do not fertilize.

November

Dormant

Monitor for winter weeds — spot-treat with atrazine if needed

Dormant. Centipede's slow spread means bare spots won't fill in until spring — note areas for spring plugging.

December

Dormant

Equipment maintenance

Review soil test — target pH 5.0-6.0 (more acidic than other warm-season grasses)

Off-season. Centipede prefers acidic soil — do NOT lime unless soil test shows pH below 5.0. Most centipede decline is caused by over-liming or over-fertilizing.

Quick Reference

Mowing Height

1.5-2"

Dormant below 55°F soil temp. Green-up at 65°F.

Watering

Once per week during dry periods, skip when rainfall is adequate

0.75-1 inch per session per session. Centipede has moderate drought tolerance — better than St. Augustine but less than bermuda or bahia. Water when you see wilting or blue-gray discoloration. Centipede will go dormant during drought and recover when rain returns. Overwatering promotes disease, especially large patch.

Fertilizer Program

1-2 lb N/1K sqft (less is more)/year

Soil pH target: 5.0-6.0 (acidic — do NOT lime)

Pests & Weeds to Watch

Ground PearlsCrabgrassNutsedgeSpittlebugsWhite GrubsMole CricketsNematodesDollarweedPoa annuaFlorida Betony

Want the full Centipede guide?

Read the complete Centipede care guide — quick facts, mowing heights, safe products, and the agronomy behind every recommendation.

Read the Centipede care guide

Want to compare all warm-season grasses side by side?

See the full Warm Season Calendar

Read the full Centipede grass guide →

Frequently Asked Questions

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Centipede in other climate zones

The calendar above is for the south (USDA zones 9 and warmer). Centipede is also grown in the zone below, and the timing is genuinely different — soil temperature in the transition zone runs three to five weeks behind the south, which moves pre-emergent, fertilizer and aeration with it. Find your zone and work from that table.

Growth status and soil temperature are derived from each zone's soil curve together with Centipede's own dormancy and green-up thresholds, so they describe that zone rather than an average of all of them.

Centipede in the Transition zone — USDA 7 to 8

The band from the Carolinas across to Oklahoma and up through the lower Midwest, where both warm- and cool-season grasses are grown and neither is entirely comfortable. Timing here runs three to five weeks behind the south.

Month-by-month Centipede lawn care schedule for the transition zone
Month	Growth	Mow	What to do	What you can skip
January	dormant ~35°F soil, cooling	Not this month — the lawn is dormant.	Keep leaves off the dormant lawn Service the mower	Mowing — a dormant lawn is not growing. Nothing to cut. Fertilizer — dormant turf cannot take up nitrogen. It feeds winter weeds instead. Regular irrigation — water only to stop crowns drying out in a long dry spell.
February	dormant ~36°F soil, steady	Not this month — the lawn is dormant.	Soil test Keep leaves off the dormant lawn	Mowing — a dormant lawn is not growing. Nothing to cut. Fertilizer — dormant turf cannot take up nitrogen. It feeds winter weeds instead. Regular irrigation — water only to stop crowns drying out in a long dry spell.
March	dormant ~44°F soil, warming	Not this month — the lawn is dormant.	Spring pre-emergent, before the soil hits 55 F — per label for your grass and your square footage — these products are sold on season-long residual, and the label rate is what buys it — don't spray above 90°F Keep leaves off the dormant lawn	Mowing — a dormant lawn is not growing. Nothing to cut. Fertilizer — dormant turf cannot take up nitrogen. It feeds winter weeds instead. Regular irrigation — water only to stop crowns drying out in a long dry spell.
April	dormant ~54°F soil, warming	Not this month — the lawn is dormant.	Nothing this month.	Mowing — a dormant lawn is not growing. Nothing to cut. Fertilizer — dormant turf cannot take up nitrogen. It feeds winter weeds instead. Regular irrigation — water only to stop crowns drying out in a long dry spell. Everything, honestly. There is no useful lawn work this month.
May	waking up ~64°F soil, warming	1.5–2" every 10-14 days	First mow of the season Mow on a routine First of two nitrogen applications — 1/2 lb N per 1,000 sq ft (Clemson's band is 1/2-1 lb; default to 1/2) Spot-treat broadleaf weeds — sensitive grass — don't spray above 85°F	—
June	active growth ~74°F soil, warming	1.5–2" weekly or every 10 days	Mow on a routine Core aerate Preventive grub control	—
July	peak growth ~80°F soil, warming	1.5–2" weekly or every 10 days	Mow on a routine Iron for color instead of more nitrogen Core aerate Dethatch, if the layer is over half an inch	—
August	peak growth ~80°F soil, steady	1.5–2" weekly or every 10 days	Mow on a routine Second and last nitrogen — with potassium — 1/2 lb N per 1,000 sq ft (Clemson's band is 1/2-1 lb; default to 1/2)	—
September	slowing ~72°F soil, cooling	1.5–2" every 10-14 days	Mow on a routine Fall pre-emergent for winter weeds — per label for your grass and your square footage; if you are planning a second application, the label's ANNUAL maximum is the number that governs — don't spray above 90°F Spot-treat broadleaf weeds — sensitive grass — don't spray above 85°F Preventive fungicide for large patch	Nitrogen — the cutoff has passed. Clemson puts centipede's last application before Aug 15 inland and Sep 1 on the coast. Feeding now buys soft growth that winter takes, and centipede is the grass where over-feeding kills. Aeration — the growing season left is too short to close the holes before dormancy. Seeding or sodding — a warm-season lawn established now has no time to root before winter.
October	going dormant ~60°F soil, cooling	1.5–2" every 10-14 days	Last mow before dormancy	Nitrogen — too late in the year. Late nitrogen pushes soft growth that freeze damage takes first. Aeration — there is not enough growing season left to close the holes.
November	dormant ~46°F soil, cooling	Not this month — the lawn is dormant.	Keep leaves off the dormant lawn	Mowing — a dormant lawn is not growing. Nothing to cut. Fertilizer — dormant turf cannot take up nitrogen. It feeds winter weeds instead. Regular irrigation — water only to stop crowns drying out in a long dry spell.
December	dormant ~38°F soil, cooling	Not this month — the lawn is dormant.	Keep leaves off the dormant lawn Service the mower	Mowing — a dormant lawn is not growing. Nothing to cut. Fertilizer — dormant turf cannot take up nitrogen. It feeds winter weeds instead. Regular irrigation — water only to stop crowns drying out in a long dry spell.