Warm SeasonZones 6 – 10Sun / Light Shade

The Complete Guide to
Zoysia Grass

Dense, slower-growing, and tougher than Bermuda in shade. Mowing heights, fertilizer schedules, weed control, seasonal timing, and the most common problems — built for your zone.

Right now: slowing
October — Apply 2nd fall pre-emergent (split with August) for Poa annua control
Quick Reference
Mow Height
1 – 2"
Coarser Z. japonica mows 1–2" with a rotary. Finer Z. matrella / tenuifolia 0.5–1.5" with a reel mower.
Water / Week
1"
Deep and infrequent. Early morning only. Avoid late watering — humidity invites disease.
N per Year
2 – 4 lbs
Per 1,000 sqft. Lower than Bermuda. Split into 4–5 apps from green-up through early fall.
Best Zones
6 – 10
More cold-tolerant than Bermuda. Goes dormant below 50°F soil temp.
Soil pH
6.0 – 6.5
Slightly acidic. Lime if below 5.8, pelletized sulfur if above 7.0.
Sun Needs
Sun / Light Shade
6–8+ hours direct sun. Better shade tolerance than Bermuda but worse than St. Augustine.
What makes Zoysia different
Zoysia is the dense, refined cousin of Bermuda — same warm-season heat tolerance with better shade tolerance, slower spread, and a tighter, more carpet-like canopy. It recovers from damage more slowly than Bermuda, so the goal with Zoysia is to prevent problems rather than fix them. Care is roughly 95% identical to Bermuda with a few key differences: lower nitrogen, slower recovery, more shade tolerance, and verticutting (never spring-tine dethatching) for thatch.
Dense and carpet-likeHeat lovingLight shade tolerantGoes dormant in winterSlower to recoverLower nitrogen needs

Month-by-Month Calendar

Tap a month
October
slowing
Mow
2" every 10–14 days
Water
Rainfall only unless drought
Fertilize
Light potassium only. Stop nitrogen 60 days before first hard frost.
This month's tasks
Apply 2nd fall pre-emergent (split with August) for Poa annua control
Clean up leaves so they don't smother dormant turf
Winterize irrigation system before the first freeze
Pre-Emergent Timing
Don't miss this window

Pre-emergent is the single most important application of the year. It prevents crabgrass and other weeds before they germinate. Once you see weeds, it's too late.

Spring (Crabgrass Prevention)
Critical
Apply when your 5-day average soil temperature reaches 55°F. Crabgrass seeds germinate when soil temperatures hold at 55°F for several days at the 4-inch depth. Pre-emergent must already be down BEFORE that — once you see the first crabgrass blade, the chemical barrier is too late. Zoysia's slower recovery makes weed prevention even more important than for Bermuda.
Typically late Feb – early Apr (zones 6 – 10)Varies by zone
Fall (Poa annua (annual bluegrass) Prevention)
Recommended
Apply when your 5-day average soil temperature reaches 70°F. Poa annua germinates as soil temps drop back through 70°F in late summer. Apply your fall pre-emergent BEFORE that threshold — usually mid-August in the Zoysia belt — to prevent the worst winter weed in southern lawns.
Typically Aug – SepVaries by zone
Timing matters more than product. Too early and it breaks down before weeds germinate. Too late and crabgrass is already growing — pre-emergent can't stop what's already up. Track your local soil temperature, not the calendar date.
What to use
Prodiamine 65 WDG (Barricade)
Specialty
Rate: 0.18 oz per 1,000 sqft (split spring + fall)
The gold-standard pre-emergent. Long residual, low rate, no staining. Mix in a sprayer with a marker dye and a quality surfactant.
Scotts Halts Crabgrass Preventer
Home Depot
Rate: 2.7 lbs per 1,000 sqft
Big-box pendimethalin granular. Apply with a spreader before soil hits 55°F. Stains concrete yellow — sweep off hardscape immediately.
Dithiopyr (Dimension 270G)
Lowe's
Rate: 2.3 lbs per 1,000 sqft
Pre-emergent with a few weeks of post-emergent reach-back on baby crabgrass — the only forgiveness window in pre-emergent timing.
How to check your soil temperature
Use a soil thermometer at 2–4 inch depth, or check your local extension office's soil temp map. Look for the 5-day average, not a single reading — one warm day on a zoysia lawn doesn't mean it's time.

What's Safe to Spray

Zoysia handles most selective herbicides well. Here's what's safe and what to avoid — organized by where you'd buy it.

Safe for Zoysia
✓
Scotts Halts Crabgrass Preventer
Pendimethalin
Big-box pre-emergent. Apply BEFORE soil hits 55°F at 4-inch depth. Stains concrete yellow — keep off the driveway.
Safe
✓
Scotts Turf Builder Triple Action
Benefin + 2,4-D + Dicamba (with fertilizer)
Combo pre-emergent + broadleaf killer + fertilizer. Convenient for spring on Zoysia lawns when timing aligns.
Safe
✓
Scotts Turf Builder Weed and Feed
2,4-D + Mecoprop + Dicamba (with fertilizer)
Apply to wet grass so granules stick to weed leaves. Best on actively growing Zoysia in late spring.
Safe
✓
Spectracide Weed Stop
2,4-D + MCPP + Dicamba
Big-box ready-to-spray for dandelion, clover, chickweed, plantain, henbit. Same chemistry as Trimec.
Safe
✓
BioAdvanced All-in-One
2,4-D + MCPP + Dicamba + Quinclorac
Adds quinclorac for crabgrass post-emergent. One bottle handles broadleaf + crabgrass on Zoysia.
Safe
✓
Ortho WeedClear (Northern)
2,4-D + MCPP + Dicamba
Standard 3-way broadleaf mix. Reliable on dandelion, clover, plantain, chickweed.
Safe
Avoid — Will Damage Your Zoysia
✕
Atrazine (Bonus S, Hi-Yield Atrazine)
Atrazine
NOT safe for Zoysia. On home lawns atrazine is for Centipede only — Floratam St. Augustine is not tolerant of it (Texas A&M EHT-144) — it will damage Zoysia.
Unsafe
✕
Tenacity (Mesotrione)
Mesotrione
NOT safe for Zoysia. Mesotrione bleaches warm-season turf. Cool-season lawns only.
Unsafe
✕
Image Kills Nutsedge
Imazaquin
Use with caution — imazaquin can stunt Zoysia. Halosulfuron (SedgeHammer) is the safer nutsedge choice.
Unsafe
A note on Weed & Feed products

Combo products like Weed & Feed are convenient — one bag, one application. But you'll get noticeably better results using fertilizer and weed control separately. Here's why:

Timing: Fertilizer and herbicide have different ideal application windows. A combo forces both at the same time, so one is always off-schedule.
Application: Herbicides work best as a spray that sticks to weed leaves. Granular weed & feed relies on granules physically touching each weed — inconsistent coverage.
Precision: Most lawns don't have weeds everywhere. Spraying weeds where they are costs less and puts fewer chemicals on your lawn than treating the whole yard.
Common Weed & Feed products you'll see at the store
Scotts Turf Builder Weed & Feed
Granular combo (fertilizer + 3-way broadleaf)
Northern formulation. Safe on Zoysia but the timing compromise is real — herbicide and fertilizer rarely need to go down at the same time.
Scotts Turf Builder Triple Action
Granular 3-in-1 (pre-emergent + broadleaf + fertilizer)
Tries to do everything in one bag. Convenient but locks you into a single application window.
Scotts Bonus S Southern
Granular combo (fertilizer + atrazine)
WARNING: contains atrazine — on home lawns that is Centipede only; Floratam St. Augustine is not tolerant of it (Texas A&M EHT-144). Do NOT use on Zoysia. Listed here so you can recognize and avoid the wrong bag at the store.
What to grab instead
Three separate products. Apply each on its own schedule. Better results, less waste, healthier lawn.
1
Fertilizer
A slow-release 4-1-2 ratio (e.g., 16-4-8 or 24-0-11) at 0.5 lb N per 1,000 sqft, applied when Zoysia is actively growing — not tied to when you need weed control.
2
Pre-emergent
Prodiamine 65 WDG at 0.18 oz per 1,000 sqft. Apply when soil temps approach 55°F — before crabgrass germinates.
3
Post-emergent weed killer
Celsius WG for broadleaf and most grassy weeds, or quinclorac (Drive XLR8) for crabgrass. Spot-treat where you see weeds — no need to spray the whole lawn.

Zoysia

Always read the product label before applying. Labels and formulations change — verify the active ingredient and grass safety on the bag before you spray.
Need to check a specific product?Herbicide Safety Checker →

Common Problems

Tap any issue to see symptoms, causes, and exactly how to fix it.

See something weird on your lawn?Ask Larry — send a photo →

Mowing Guide

Mowing is the single most impactful thing you can do for your Zoysia lawn. Here's how to get it right.

Height: 1 – 2 inches
Coarser Z. japonica varieties run 1–2 inches with a rotary mower. Finer Z. matrella and tenuifolia varieties go down to 0.5 inch with a reel mower. Match the cultivar to the height — going below 1 inch on coarse Zoysia tears the grass.
Frequency: Every 5–7 days in peak season
Zoysia grows slower than Bermuda, so the mowing window is more forgiving. Never remove more than 1/3 of the blade in one cut. Sharp blade is non-negotiable — Zoysia is famously hard on dull blades.
Reel vs. Rotary
Reel mowers are preferred under 1.5 inches. Rotary mowers work fine at 1.5–2 inches but need scalp wheels and a sharp blade to avoid frayed tips.
Clippings: Mulch, don't bag
Zoysia clippings break down and return nitrogen to the soil. Only bag after a heavy mow where clumps would smother the grass.
Spring scalp before green-up
Scalp gradually to 50% of your target height when full green haze appears in early spring. This removes dead winter material and lets sunlight reach the crowns. Bag the clippings — Zoysia recovers slowly from heavy debris.
Sharpen blades every 15–20 hours
Zoysia's tough blades dull a mower fast. Dull blades tear the grass and turn the lawn brown at the tips. Sharp blade = visibly cleaner color.
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Deep dives on Zoysia

Five seasonal topics covered in detail — every claim sourced from the agronomy KB behind this guide.

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