Perennial Ryegrass lawn care in November

In November, Perennial Ryegrass is slowing down in the transition zone and going dormant in the North & upper Midwest — soil around 40–46°F, and the soil cooling. The jobs that matter most: final mow of the season and keep leaves off the lawn.

Perennial Ryegrass in November, by region

Perennial Ryegrass growth status, mowing height and watering in November, by climate zone
RegionGrowthMowWater
Transition
USDA 7–8
slowing
~46°F soil, cooling
1.5–2.5"
weekly
Water on demand now, not on a schedule — growth is slowing and so is the lawn's water use. Irrigate when the colour turns a dark bluish-grey and the leaves wilt, fold or curl. About an inch a week at most and, as NC State puts it, ideally NOT all at once — half an inch at a time is plenty. Between 2 and 8 a.m., which is what keeps leaf-wetness hours short.
North
USDA 6 and colder
going dormant
~40°F soil, cooling
1.5–2.5"
one last cut, once growth has stopped — then put the mower away
No regular irrigation. Growth has stopped, and in the north the sprinkler system should already be drained — UMN puts the blow-out in the third or fourth week of October for much of Minnesota. One last soaking before the soil freezes is worthwhile if autumn has been dry, because it lets the crowns rehydrate going into winter. After that, nothing.

Growth status, soil temperature and the mow and water guidance are derived from each zone's soil curve together with Perennial Ryegrass's own dormancy and green-up thresholds, so each row describes that region rather than an average of all of them.

November in the transition zone

The band from the Carolinas across to Oklahoma and up through the lower Midwest, where both warm- and cool-season grasses are grown and neither is entirely comfortable. Timing here runs three to five weeks behind the south.

Growth
slowing~46°F soil, cooling
Mow
1.5–2.5"weekly
Water
Water on demand now, not on a schedule — growth is slowing and so is the lawn's water use. Irrigate when the colour turns a dark bluish-grey and the leaves wilt, fold or curl. About an inch a week at most and, as NC State puts it, ideally NOT all at once — half an inch at a time is plenty. Between 2 and 8 a.m., which is what keeps leaf-wetness hours short.
Worth doing

Late autumn nitrogen

The lawn keeps building roots after top growth stops, and this application feeds that. It is also what gives an early, even green-up next spring without the flush of soft growth that a spring application causes.

When: after top growth slows, before the ground freezes (week 2 of the month)
Rate: 0.5-1 lb N per 1,000 sq ft
Product: 4-1-2 analysis, balanced granular fertilizer
Steps
  1. Apply while the lawn is still green but growth has slowed.
  2. Half to one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft.
  3. Get it down before the ground freezes, and before heavy leaf fall covers the lawn.

Purdue University Extension, AY-22-W — Fertilizing Established Cool-season Lawns · Purdue University Extension, Fall Fertilization of Home Lawns: Is it too late? (Purdue Plant & Pest Diagnostic Laboratory)

Full fertilizer guide →
Worth doing

Spot-treat broadleaf weeds

Autumn is the best time of year to kill perennial broadleaf weeds. They are moving sugars down into their roots to overwinter, and they carry the herbicide down with them — the same application in spring mostly burns off top growth and the weed returns.

When: on a sunny day above 55 F, on actively growing weeds, and below 90 F
Product: selective post-emergent broadleaf herbicide
Air temperature: Spray on a day above 55°F; not above 90°F. Below the floor the weed is not actively growing and the application is wasted; above the ceiling you injure the lawn.
Steps
  1. Spray the weed, not the lawn.
  2. Mow 2-3 days BEFORE spraying, not after — the herbicide needs leaf area to work through.
  3. Pick a sunny day with the high above 55 F and below 90 F. Below that the weeds are not actively growing and the spray does nothing; above it you injure the lawn.
  4. Stay off drought-stressed turf.
  5. Wait at least 3-4 weeks after seeding before any broadleaf herbicide.

Purdue University Extension, Fall broadleaf weed control applications

Full weed-control guide →
Worth doingEvery week this month

Keep leaves off the lawn

A wet mat of leaves will smother and kill cool-season turf within a couple of weeks, and because the grass is still green and growing underneath, the damage is real rather than cosmetic.

When: weekly through leaf fall
Steps
  1. Clear leaves weekly through the fall rather than waiting for them all to drop.
  2. Shredding them with the mower is fine in a thin layer and returns organic matter.
  3. A thick layer has to come off.

Penn State Extension, Leaves Are Treasure, Not Trash

November in the North & upper Midwest

The upper Midwest, New England and the Pacific Northwest. A short season with a hard winter, so the autumn window closes earlier and matters more.

Growth
going dormant~40°F soil, cooling
Mow
1.5–2.5"one last cut, once growth has stopped — then put the mower away
Water
No regular irrigation. Growth has stopped, and in the north the sprinkler system should already be drained — UMN puts the blow-out in the third or fourth week of October for much of Minnesota. One last soaking before the soil freezes is worthwhile if autumn has been dry, because it lets the crowns rehydrate going into winter. After that, nothing.
Do this

Final mow of the season

Growth has stopped — the soil is at 40 F, and Purdue puts growth cessation below exactly that. The last cut matters more than the ones before it, because whatever height the lawn goes into winter at is the height it sits at under snow for months. Long grass lays over into a mat, and a mat is what snow mold runs through. UMN: "mow your lawn a little shorter going into the winter, but not lower than two inches", which "reduces the risk of snow mold diseases".

When: the last cut once growth has stopped (week 2 of the month)
Steps
  1. Take it a little shorter than your usual autumn cut, but never below 2 in.
  2. Keep mowing until growth genuinely stops rather than stopping on a date — generally the end of October in the upper Midwest, early November at the southern edge of the zone.
  3. Clear the leaves on the same pass. Going into winter with leaves on the lawn undoes the point of the lower cut.
  4. Then service the mower; you are done with it until April.

University of Minnesota Extension, Mowing practices for healthy lawns · University of Minnesota Extension, Late Fall Lawn Care

Worth doingEvery week this month

Keep leaves off the lawn

A wet mat of leaves will smother and kill cool-season turf within a couple of weeks, and because the grass is still green and growing underneath, the damage is real rather than cosmetic.

When: weekly through leaf fall
Steps
  1. Clear leaves weekly through the fall rather than waiting for them all to drop.
  2. Shredding them with the mower is fine in a thin layer and returns organic matter.
  3. A thick layer has to come off.

University of Minnesota Extension, Late Fall Lawn Care · Penn State Extension, Leaves Are Treasure, Not Trash

Good to know

  • Growth stops long before the ground freezes. Purdue: "Plant growth slows when the soil temperature drops below 40 degrees F" — so once the soil is in the low 40s there is nothing for fertilizer to go into and nothing to cut. The rule of thumb that follows: if Halloween has come and gone, put the spreader away.

Perennial Ryegrass in November: common questions

Should I fertilize Perennial Ryegrass in November?

In the transition zone, yes — late autumn nitrogen at 0.5-1 lb N per 1,000 sq ft, after top growth slows, before the ground freezes. In the North & upper Midwest, no — no nitrogen application is scheduled for this zone in November.

Is my Perennial Ryegrass dormant in November?

In the transition zone, no — soil is around 46°F at 4-inch depth and cooling. In the North & upper Midwest, not yet, but it is going dormant — soil is around 40°F at 4-inch depth and cooling. Cool-season growth stops below about 40°F soil temperature, well before the ground freezes, and picks up again in spring. Take the reading at 4 inches, in a sunny representative part of the lawn, in the morning.

How short should I cut Perennial Ryegrass in November?

In the transition zone, 1.5–2.5 inches, weekly. In the North & upper Midwest, 1.5–2.5 inches, one last cut, once growth has stopped — then put the mower away.

How much should I water Perennial Ryegrass in November?

In the transition zone: Water on demand now, not on a schedule — growth is slowing and so is the lawn's water use. Irrigate when the colour turns a dark bluish-grey and the leaves wilt, fold or curl. About an inch a week at most and, as NC State puts it, ideally NOT all at once — half an inch at a time is plenty. Between 2 and 8 a.m., which is what keeps leaf-wetness hours short. In the North & upper Midwest: No regular irrigation. Growth has stopped, and in the north the sprinkler system should already be drained — UMN puts the blow-out in the third or fourth week of October for much of Minnesota. One last soaking before the soil freezes is worthwhile if autumn has been dry, because it lets the crowns rehydrate going into winter. After that, nothing.

Can I spray weeds on Perennial Ryegrass in November?

Spot-treat broadleaf weeds. When: on a sunny day above 55 F, on actively growing weeds, and below 90 F. Temperature: apply on a day above 55°F and below 90°F.

Sources

Soil temperatures are Lawn HQ estimates for your climate zone. How we work

By Lawn HQ · Last reviewed . Extension or land-grant sources only, matched to this grass and this climate zone. Found something wrong? Tell us and we will fix it and update the date.

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