Zoysia Care Calendar

Month-by-month care schedule for Zoysia grass lawns. Mowing heights, fertilizer timing, pest watch, and seasonal tasks — organized by month.

Mowing
1-2" (rotary) · 0.5-1.5" (reel)
Annual N
2-4 lb N/1K sqft
Water
1 inch/week
pH
6.0-6.5
10
What to do now

October

Dormant
Reduce mowing to every 10-14 days
MowingMed
Leaf removal — don't let debris smother turf
GeneralMed
Watch for large patch disease in cooling weather
DiseaseMed

Zoysia begins slowing. Large patch (Rhizoctonia) can affect zoysia in fall/spring when temps are 50-75°F.

Full Year Calendar

Every task, every month. Tap a month to see what's on the schedule.

January

Dormant
Monitor for winter weeds (Poa annua, henbit)
Sharpen mower blades — clean cuts matter more on slow-growing zoysia

Zoysia may retain some green in Zone 9-10. Growth is very slow. Avoid any nitrogen.

February

Active
Apply pre-emergent when soil approaches 55°F!
Optional: light scalp to 0.75-1" to remove dead top growth

Zoysia can be lightly scalped in spring but it's less critical than with bermuda. If scalping, bag clippings to let soil warm.

March

Active
First nitrogen application (0.5 lb N/1K) once grass is 50%+ green!
Begin mowing at 1-2" as growth resumes!
Spot-treat broadleaf weeds as they appear

Zoysia greens up later than bermuda. Wait for consistent growth before feeding. Do NOT rush nitrogen.

April

Active
Regular mowing every 7-10 days at 1-2"!
Second nitrogen application (0.5 lb N/1K)
Apply preventive grub control (imidacloprid)
Core aerate if thatch exceeds 0.5"

Zoysia builds thatch faster than bermuda. Dethatch if thatch layer exceeds 0.5 inches — use a bladed dethatcher, NOT a prong-type.

May

Active
Mow every 5-7 days during peak growth at 1-2"!
Apply slow-release fertilizer (0.5 lb N/1K)
Begin deep watering schedule (1" per week)!
Treat nutsedge if present

Peak growth begins. Zoysia is a slow grower even in summer — mow less frequently than bermuda. Never remove more than 1/3 of blade height.

June

Active
Maintain mowing at 1-2" every 5-7 days!
Water deeply 2-3 times per week (early morning)!
Scout for billbugs and white grubs
Iron supplement for color if needed

Zoysia thrives in summer heat. Its dense canopy naturally suppresses many weeds. Watch for dollar spot in humid weather with low nitrogen.

July

Active
Continue mowing and watering routine!
Light nitrogen (0.5 lb N/1K) or iron for color
Repair thin areas with plugs or sod

Peak heat — zoysia handles it well. Plugs and sod establish best now. Zoysia spreads slower than bermuda, so repairs take longer.

August

Active
Apply fall pre-emergent for winter weeds!
Continue summer mowing routine!

Fall pre-emergent prevents Poa annua and henbit. Apply before soil temps drop below 70°F.

September

Active
Apply potassium (1 lb K/1K) for winter hardiness!
Stop all nitrogen applications!
Reduce mowing frequency

Potassium builds cold hardiness. Zoysia stays green longer than bermuda (dormancy at 50°F vs 55°F) but still needs winter prep.

October

Dormant
Reduce mowing to every 10-14 days
Leaf removal — don't let debris smother turf
Watch for large patch disease in cooling weather

Zoysia begins slowing. Large patch (Rhizoctonia) can affect zoysia in fall/spring when temps are 50-75°F.

November

Dormant
Clear leaves and debris
Monitor for winter weeds

Zoysia enters dormancy later than bermuda. Brown color is normal.

December

Dormant
Equipment maintenance and blade sharpening
Soil test and plan spring inputs

Off-season. Zoysia's slow growth means less equipment wear, but sharp blades are still essential for clean cuts.

Quick Reference

Mowing Height

1-2" (rotary) · 0.5-1.5" (reel)

Dormant below 50°F soil temp. Green-up at 65°F.

Watering

2-3 times per week during active growth, once weekly in cooler months

0.5 inches per session (1 inch total per week) per session. Zoysia needs less water than St. Augustine. Its dense canopy reduces evaporation. Water early morning only. Signs of drought stress: leaf blades folding and a blue-gray tint.

Fertilizer Program

2-4 lb N/1K sqft/year

Soil pH target: 6.0-6.5

Pests & Weeds to Watch

BillbugsNutsedgeCrabgrassWhite GrubsHunting BillbugsSod WebwormsGoosegrassPoa annuaDollarweed

Want to compare all warm-season grasses side by side?

See the full Warm Season Calendar

Frequently Asked Questions

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Zoysia in other climate zones

The calendar above is for the south (USDA zones 9 and warmer). Zoysia is also grown in the zones below, and the timing is genuinely different — soil temperature in the transition zone runs three to five weeks behind the south, which moves pre-emergent, fertilizer and aeration with it. Find your zone and work from that table.

Growth status and soil temperature are derived from each zone's soil curve together with Zoysia's own dormancy and green-up thresholds, so they describe that zone rather than an average of all of them.

Zoysia in the Transition zone — USDA 7 to 8

The band from the Carolinas across to Oklahoma and up through the lower Midwest, where both warm- and cool-season grasses are grown and neither is entirely comfortable. Timing here runs three to five weeks behind the south.

Month-by-month Zoysia lawn care schedule for the transition zone
MonthGrowthMowWhat to doWhat you can skip
Januarydormant
~35°F soil, cooling
Not this month — the lawn is dormant.
  • Keep leaves off the dormant lawn
  • Service the mower
  • Mowing — a dormant lawn is not growing. Nothing to cut.
  • Fertilizer — dormant turf cannot take up nitrogen. It feeds winter weeds instead.
  • Regular irrigation — water only to stop crowns drying out in a long dry spell.
Februarydormant
~36°F soil, steady
Not this month — the lawn is dormant.
  • Soil test
  • Keep leaves off the dormant lawn
  • Mowing — a dormant lawn is not growing. Nothing to cut.
  • Fertilizer — dormant turf cannot take up nitrogen. It feeds winter weeds instead.
  • Regular irrigation — water only to stop crowns drying out in a long dry spell.
Marchdormant
~44°F soil, warming
Not this month — the lawn is dormant.
  • Spring pre-emergent, before the soil hits 55 F — per label for your grass and your square footage — these products are sold on season-long residual, and the label rate is what buys it — don't spray above 90°F
  • Keep leaves off the dormant lawn
  • Mowing — a dormant lawn is not growing. Nothing to cut.
  • Fertilizer — dormant turf cannot take up nitrogen. It feeds winter weeds instead.
  • Regular irrigation — water only to stop crowns drying out in a long dry spell.
Aprilwaking up
~54°F soil, warming
1–2"
weekly
  • Scalp the lawn down before green-up
  • First mow of the season
  • Mow on a routine
  • Fertilizer until the lawn is fully green — roughly 75% green-up, not the first hint of color.
Maywaking up
~64°F soil, warming
1–2"
weekly
  • Mow on a routine
  • Spot-treat broadleaf weeds — don't spray above 90°F
  • Fertilizer until the lawn is fully green — roughly 75% green-up, not the first hint of color.
Juneactive growth
~74°F soil, warming
1–2"
every 2-3 days
  • Mow on a routine
  • Mid-season nitrogen — 0.5-1 lb N per 1,000 sq ft
  • Core aerate
  • Preventive grub control
—
Julypeak growth
~80°F soil, warming
1–2"
every 2-3 days
  • Mow on a routine
  • Iron for color instead of more nitrogen
  • Core aerate
  • Dethatch, if the layer is over half an inch
—
Augustpeak growth
~80°F soil, steady
1–2"
every 2-3 days
  • Mow on a routine
  • Last nitrogen of the year — 0.5 lb N per 1,000 sq ft
—
Septemberslowing
~72°F soil, cooling
1–2"
weekly
  • Mow on a routine
  • Potassium for winter hardiness — only if a soil test says your soil is short of it — 1 lb K2O per 1,000 sq ft — 1.6 lb of 0-0-60, or 2 lb of 0-0-50
  • Fall pre-emergent for winter weeds — per label for your grass and your square footage; if you are planning a second application, the label's ANNUAL maximum is the number that governs — don't spray above 90°F
  • Spot-treat broadleaf weeds — don't spray above 90°F
  • Preventive fungicide for large patch
  • Nitrogen — you are inside six weeks of first frost in most of this zone. Late nitrogen pushes soft growth that freeze damage takes first.
  • Aeration — the growing season left is too short to close the holes before dormancy.
  • Seeding or sodding — a warm-season lawn established now has no time to root before winter.
Octobergoing dormant
~60°F soil, cooling
1–2"
weekly
  • Last mow before dormancy
  • Nitrogen — too late in the year. Late nitrogen pushes soft growth that freeze damage takes first.
  • Aeration — there is not enough growing season left to close the holes.
Novemberdormant
~46°F soil, cooling
Not this month — the lawn is dormant.
  • Keep leaves off the dormant lawn
  • Mowing — a dormant lawn is not growing. Nothing to cut.
  • Fertilizer — dormant turf cannot take up nitrogen. It feeds winter weeds instead.
  • Regular irrigation — water only to stop crowns drying out in a long dry spell.
Decemberdormant
~38°F soil, cooling
Not this month — the lawn is dormant.
  • Keep leaves off the dormant lawn
  • Service the mower
  • Mowing — a dormant lawn is not growing. Nothing to cut.
  • Fertilizer — dormant turf cannot take up nitrogen. It feeds winter weeds instead.
  • Regular irrigation — water only to stop crowns drying out in a long dry spell.

Zoysia in the North — USDA 6 and colder

The upper Midwest, New England and the Pacific Northwest. A short season with a hard winter, so the autumn window closes earlier and matters more.

Month-by-month Zoysia lawn care schedule for the north zone
MonthGrowthMowWhat to doWhat you can skip
Januarydormant
~28°F soil, cooling
Not this month — the lawn is dormant.
  • Keep leaves off the dormant lawn
  • Service the mower
  • Mowing — a dormant lawn is not growing. Nothing to cut.
  • Fertilizer — dormant turf cannot take up nitrogen. It feeds winter weeds instead.
  • Regular irrigation — water only to stop crowns drying out in a long dry spell.
Februarydormant
~28°F soil, steady
Not this month — the lawn is dormant.
  • Soil test
  • Keep leaves off the dormant lawn
  • Mowing — a dormant lawn is not growing. Nothing to cut.
  • Fertilizer — dormant turf cannot take up nitrogen. It feeds winter weeds instead.
  • Regular irrigation — water only to stop crowns drying out in a long dry spell.
Marchdormant
~36°F soil, warming
Not this month — the lawn is dormant.
  • Keep leaves off the dormant lawn
  • Mowing — a dormant lawn is not growing. Nothing to cut.
  • Fertilizer — dormant turf cannot take up nitrogen. It feeds winter weeds instead.
  • Regular irrigation — water only to stop crowns drying out in a long dry spell.
Aprildormant
~46°F soil, warming
Not this month — the lawn is dormant.
  • Scalp the lawn down before green-up
  • Spring pre-emergent, before the soil hits 55 F — per label for your grass and your square footage — these products are sold on season-long residual, and the label rate is what buys it — don't spray above 90°F
  • Mowing — a dormant lawn is not growing. Nothing to cut.
  • Fertilizer — dormant turf cannot take up nitrogen. It feeds winter weeds instead.
  • Regular irrigation — water only to stop crowns drying out in a long dry spell.
Maywaking up
~56°F soil, warming
1–2"
weekly
  • First mow of the season
  • Mow on a routine
  • Spot-treat broadleaf weeds — don't spray above 90°F
  • Fertilizer until the lawn is fully green — roughly 75% green-up, not the first hint of color.
Juneactive growth
~66°F soil, warming
1–2"
every 2-3 days
  • Mow on a routine
  • Mid-season nitrogen — 0.5-1 lb N per 1,000 sq ft
  • Core aerate
  • Preventive grub control
—
Julyactive growth
~74°F soil, warming
1–2"
every 2-3 days
  • Mow on a routine
  • Last nitrogen of the year — 0.5 lb N per 1,000 sq ft
  • Core aerate
—
Augustactive growth
~74°F soil, steady
1–2"
every 2-3 days
  • Mow on a routine
—
Septembergoing dormant
~64°F soil, cooling
1–2"
weekly
  • Fall pre-emergent for winter weeds — per label for your grass and your square footage; if you are planning a second application, the label's ANNUAL maximum is the number that governs — don't spray above 90°F
  • Spot-treat broadleaf weeds — don't spray above 90°F
  • Nitrogen — too late in the year. Late nitrogen pushes soft growth that freeze damage takes first.
  • Aeration — there is not enough growing season left to close the holes.
Octobergoing dormant
~52°F soil, cooling
1–2"
weekly
  • Last mow before dormancy
  • Nitrogen — too late in the year. Late nitrogen pushes soft growth that freeze damage takes first.
  • Aeration — there is not enough growing season left to close the holes.
Novemberdormant
~40°F soil, cooling
Not this month — the lawn is dormant.
  • Keep leaves off the dormant lawn
  • Mowing — a dormant lawn is not growing. Nothing to cut.
  • Fertilizer — dormant turf cannot take up nitrogen. It feeds winter weeds instead.
  • Regular irrigation — water only to stop crowns drying out in a long dry spell.
Decemberdormant
~32°F soil, cooling
Not this month — the lawn is dormant.
  • Keep leaves off the dormant lawn
  • Service the mower
  • Mowing — a dormant lawn is not growing. Nothing to cut.
  • Fertilizer — dormant turf cannot take up nitrogen. It feeds winter weeds instead.
  • Regular irrigation — water only to stop crowns drying out in a long dry spell.